How to build eyelashes: techniques and nuances

Owners of eyelash extensions know how much wearing this cosmetic product facilitates daily makeup. Thanks to artificial eyelashes, you can give expressiveness and visually increase the size of even very small, deep-set eyes. The procedure itself is an extension and increase in the volume of hairs framing the eyelids using artificial or natural ciliary material

Eyelash Extension Techniques

Ways of eyelash extensions are quite diverse. There is no better or worse among them, each method for eyelash extension has its own characteristics. A different method is suitable for each client, and he should give preference to subsequent extensions, without changing each time one method of eyelash extension to another. According to the type of procedure, the following eyelash extension techniques are distinguished below.

Puchkovaya

The classic way to eyelash extensions. With this technology, small bundles of artificial or natural hairs are attached to your natural eyelashes. The procedure will take about an hour, and repeated eyelash extensions are carried out in a month.

Japanese

This method involves sticking the hair step by step on each eyelash. This is the best way to achieve a natural, expressive look. Less - eyelash extension procedure lasts almost three hours, so be patient.

"Incomplete volume"

The most gentle technology - the expandable cilia are attached through one hair or they are glued only to the corners of the eye. This method is suitable for girls whose eyelashes are naturally thick and long.

2D and 3D eyelash extensions

This technology involves attaching 2 to 3 hairs to one eyelash. The procedure is very painstaking and time consuming. Eyelash extensions look very thick and dense. The technique is not suitable for those whose own eyelashes are weakened and brittle.

When going to the salon for eyelash extensions, you will be asked to choose one or another technique, as well as additional services (decorating eyelash extensions with sparkles, etc.). However, for the first time we recommend using standard black or brown hairs.

Eyelash selection

The material for making eyelashes and their location on the eyelid during extension is the choice of the master and, of course, the client. To choose the right material for the procedure, you should have minimal knowledge about its characteristics. Eyelashes for extension vary in thickness of hair and color intensity. However, the list of requirements is much wider, the characteristics parameters include:

• The length, bending and thickness of the cilia;
• The composition of the material of manufacture, its parameters, including rigidity and flexibility;
• The selected technique for performing the procedure;
• Other conditions (is there a desire to decorate eyelashes with rhinestones, etc.).

To correctly determine how long the hair used for extension should be, the individual characteristics of your natural eyelashes are taken into account. Depending on the length, the material to be stacked is characterized as follows:

• 7 mm - hairs for the design of the lower eyelid;
• 10 mm - the "gold standard". This is the optimal length for the natural effect of thick long eyelashes;
• 12 mm - material of this length is suitable for girls who have their own eyelashes at least 8 mm in length. Hair looks more noticeable, but suitable for everyday wear;
• 14 mm - if you want to achieve a stronger effect and have natural eyelashes, which are naturally quite long and thick, you can use this type of material. But the length of 14 mm looks quite defiant, so it is used for special occasions;
• 15 - 20 mm - eyelashes for special occasions and theatrical makeup, in particular. They are being increased for a one-time event and removed almost immediately. Such hairs cannot be worn for a long time: they break off and bend in a dream.

If the master has sufficient experience, he will personally tell you which eyelashes to choose for extensions in your case. Do not be surprised if you are offered combine hairs of different lengths: this technique allows you to achieve the effect of maximum naturalness. Shorter cilia are attached in the center, and those that are longer are placed in the corner, which gives the look openness and expressiveness.

Useful advice: before building it is useful to familiarize yourself with the portfolio of the wizard to assess the level of his professionalism and see the potential result.

Also eyelashes for extension are selected according to the curve of bending. Its types are differentiated as follows:

• J - the hair has an almost straight line, the bend is barely noticeable;
• B - a slight bend corresponding to the shape of a natural cilia;
• C - such a bend is most popular in extension salons, eyelashes are curled and frame the eye well. Their use will dispense with the use of curling irons;
• D, CC - strong bending. Such eyelashes are used for special occasions.

Before the extension procedure, carefully study the composition of the material of the eyelashes offered. Today, artificial and natural hairs are in use. Their classification is as follows:

Artificial

Made of monomer, a low molecular weight component that forms a polymer in a polymerization reaction. It imitates natural eyelashes well and gives them sufficient flexibility. Suitable for creating 2D, 3D effects.

Natural

Regardless of the selected material and the method of building (in bunches or separately), the necessary tools for the procedure will be universal.

Necessary tools

If you decide to do eyelash extensions yourself, the first and most important rule is to never save on tools and supplies. This is especially true for products that directly contact with the organs of vision (glue, degreaser). So, for the procedure you will need:

Degreasing fluid.It prepares the surface for better adhesion with the adhesive backing. For this, the composition of the liquid contains components that remove the product of the sebaceous glands from the surface of the skin.

Glue.In the market of professional cosmetics today, many types of this material are available, differing in price, duration, composition and resistance to water.It is not easy to decide on the ideal glue for fixing eyelashes, but we recommend that you read the reviews of professionals and do not choose cheap options. Some make-up artists prefer transparent discreet glue, while others use a black adhesive base that enhances the visual effect of eyelash size.

 

Solvent.It is used to remove glue residue from the ciliary edge. When choosing a product, carefully study the label, giving preference to hypoallergenic products.

Debonder.Alternative to solvent. This is a special composition with a creamy texture that gently dissolves adhesive resins, due to which the eyelashes are removed especially easily.

Several tweezers for fixing hairs (minimum 2).The best are steel products having a curved or straight tip shape. Aluminum and plastic models are advised not to be used.

Cosmetic mirror with an approximation.In general, you can use any convenient mirror.

Capacity for glue.It is convenient and speeds up the process.

Eyelash Container Holderfastens on a hand and also facilitates work.

Expendable materials.Toothpicks for separating glued cilia, cotton buds, cotton pads, disinfectant wipes.

 

Organizer for storing tools.

Instrument sterilizer (see next paragraph).

Instrument sterilization

So that the eyelash extension procedure does not entail the development of conjunctival infection and inflammation of the hair follicles, it is necessary to thoroughly disinfect and sterilize the instruments used in the work. The master uses for each client sterile, pre-prepared devices. Preparing tools involves three steps.

Stage 1: disinfection

Disinfection of devices is designed to destroy viruses, bacteria and other pathogenic microorganisms, pathogens of various diseases. Not only tools are disinfected, but also the work surfaces and hands of the master. Quartzing is regularly carried out in the room itself. Air is disinfected with a bactericidal ultraviolet irradiator.

All instruments in contact with the client’s skin are immersed in a disinfectant solution immediately after the previous correction procedure, so that the contaminants do not undergo drying. Disinfectant aging carried out during the time specified in the instructions for the chemical composition of the liquid (for each solution, the time is individual). Then the instruments are cleaned with running water for 5 - 7 minutes and are subjected to pre-sterilization treatment.

Stage 2: pre-sterilization treatment

With this procedure, mechanical, lipid and protein contaminants on the instruments, as well as the remains of medications, are cleaned. Processing is carried out manually (with gauze swabs and brass brushes), as well as immersion in another container with a sterilizing solution with full immersion of instruments. The machining master wears protective gloves. If traces of rust are found on the instrument, it is replaced with a new one.

Stage 3: sterilization

Aging tools in special devices: dry heat oven, autoclave or ball quartz sterilizer. Sterilize only pre-dried instruments when opened or disassembled. After processing, they are stored in a sterile environment - UV sterilizers or disposable sterile bags. The shelf life of devices in this form is 3 days.

Useful advice: before going through the procedure of building in the cabin, ask the master if the instrument sterilizer is installed in the cabinet. A negative answer will be an occasion to think about whether it is worth building in this place.

Step-by-step instructions for eyelash extensions

If you decide to do eyelash extensions professionally or want to spend it at home, check out the step-by-step process of performing the procedure.

Step 1. Wash your face thoroughly with cosmetic soap and pat it with a clean, dry towel so that no moisture remains on the skin (and especially on the eyelids).

Step 2 Remove eyelid grease with a special eyelash degreaser. If not, use a primer or makeup remover. Place cotton or gel wipes on the lower eyelids for protection.

Step 3 Remove the false eyelashes from the packaging and try on them forever. If their length does not suit you, the hairs are shortened with sharp scissors from the outer corner.

Step 4 Apply glue along the entire length of the patch material, spreading the tips well. Wait 30 to 40 seconds before proceeding to the next step.

Step 5 Artificial eyelashes are taken with tweezers and applied as close as possible to the base of the growth of natural hairs, the initial section is taken from the middle of the century. Press them in the direction from the outer corner of the eye to the nose and press them with a cotton swab or a toothpick.

Step 6 The ciliary augmentation requires more dexterity and patience. You will need 80 to 120 artificial hairs. Each eyelash is captured with tweezers, dipped in glue to half and applied to your eyelash, indenting 1 mm from the eyelid.

It is important to consider:

• The distance from the base of the natural eyelash to the beginning of the scalp should be at least half a millimeter (preferably one millimeter);
• At the base, press the hair most intensely so that it grasps well with the surface;
• Try to avoid gluing. Glued eyelashes cause great discomfort to its owner;
• If a series of eyelashes is glued, fasten the hairs in one direction, otherwise they will look messy.

Correction

In order for eyelash extensions to maintain a natural look and aesthetic beauty, regular timely correction will be required. Conducting the relevant procedure once a month is considered timely. Yes, this is really necessary, and this is one of the drawbacks of wearing eyelash extensions. If for some reason you decide to refuse them, removal should be carried out only in the salon, so that it is performed by a specialist.

In extreme cases, you can remove artificial eyelashes at home. For this, the ciliary edge is applied dense layer of fat cream for 15 minutes. After the specified period of time, the cream is removed with a cotton pad, and then gently with your fingers try to separate the adhesive base from the eyelid. Using tweezers is strictly forbidden: this is the right way to injure the eye and hair follicles.

Attention: correction after the very first eyelash extension procedure is carried out after 2 - 3 weeks.

You can wear extended cilia during correction once a month no longer than six months. Then the eyes need rest for about 30 to 40 days, after which the procedure is repeated. Note that it can affect the state of the natural hairs that border the eyelids and lead to their fragility and loss. This is due to a malfunction in the natural cleansing of the interciliary space and a deterioration in the function of the sebaceous glands.

Eyelash Care

Artificial eyelashes simplify the ritual of daily makeup and care for the appearance, but they also need careful maintenance, which allows to extend the life of the product. Immediately after the procedure for hair extensions framing the incision of the eye was performed, it is necessary restrain tearing. If you are quite emotional in nature, you have to restrain yourself: moisture of the tear fluid corrodes the adhesive base, which damages its structure. For the same reason, it is recommended do not wash your face in the first 2 - 3 hours after the procedure, and in the next 3 to 4 days, washing is carried out as delicately as possible.

Rubbing your eyes is strictly forbidden: so you not only damage the eyelashes, but also injure the conjunctiva, which will cause its inflammation. In the best case, the glued eyelashes will have to be removed, in the worst case, surgical intervention by an ophthalmologist will be required.

For the first time after eyelash extensions abandon the bath, steam and infrared saunas, swimming in the pool or the sea. Chlorinated or sea water is not the best medium for ciliary glue. If you have to have contact with water by occupation or simply because it is time for vacation and you can’t go to the sea, be sure to use sunglasses (on the beach), as well as glasses and a mask for diving.

So that artificial eyelashes at home do not lose shape and shine, master the basic rules of care. Never rub the eyelids after bathing. Of course, the use of a washcloth is absolutely unacceptable. To dry the eyelashes, carefully attach cotton pads to them and hold them for a few seconds without pressing on your eyes.

When wearing eyelashes, it is forbidden to use alcohol-containing lotions and tonics, cosmetic oils and oily creams. The application of additional mascara to artificial eyelashes is not recommended. It is especially dangerous to use waterproof mascara: its components can enter into a chemical reaction with an adhesive base, which will provoke an allergic reaction.

Always apply moisturizers away from the ciliary edge. For safe cleansing of the skin from makeup and impurities, use micellar water. A cotton pad is moistened in it, with which the eyelids are gently cleaned.

It is allowed to use eyelash curlers if you are not comfortable with their natural shape. In this case, proceed with extreme caution so as not to damage the base of the hairs, which will lead to their fracture. Damaged eyelashes not only lose their shape, but also quickly fall off. Every day tidy comb hair with a special clean brushused only for this procedure.

Also, care for eyelash extensions implies their protection against mechanical damage. To do this, you will have to sleep in a special position in which sleep is not allowed with your face in the pillow.

Contraindications to the procedure

Before contacting the salon for eyelash extension services, you should find out if this procedure is suitable for you for medical reasons. There are a number of conditions and periodic features in which the extension of eyelashes is not recommended. Absolute contraindications include:

• Ophthalmic diseases - inflammation of the cornea, conjunctivitis, barley on the eye, demodex (ciliary mite), etc .;
• Dermatological diseases - neurodermatitis, dermatitis, psoriatic plaques on the skin of the face, etc .;
• Oncological diseases of the eye - benign, malignant (retinoblastoma) and locally destructive tumors;
• Asthma - the chemical components in the adhesive during evaporation can provoke an attack of suffocation;
• A tendency to severe allergic reactions is a rare phenomenon, but glue for eyelash extensions can cause an allergic reaction up to Quincke's edema.

There are also a number of conditions under which eyelash extensions are not contraindicated, however special condition of the body at the time of the procedure may affect the timing of eyelash wear:

• Disruptions in the endocrine system and hormonal imbalance caused by oral contraceptives, the period of pregnancy and lactation, the menstrual cycle;
• Taking antibiotics;
• Reception of alcohol-containing drinks;
• Acceptance of psychotropic and tranquilizing drugs, the presence of mental diseases and / or disorders of the nervous system;
• Received shortly before the extension (less than three days) dyeing eyelashes. The used paint will worsen the adhesion of the glue, and the eyelashes will quickly crumble;
• Using cosmetic skin care products for eyelids and oil-based eyelashes;
• Hypersensitivity of the mucous membrane (conjunctiva), increased lacrimation.

When wearing extended eyelashes and contact lenses are possible frequent allergic reactions. The reason for this is a conflict of chemical compositions of glue and saline for lenses or mechanical irritation of the cornea and eyelids due to the presence of foreign bodies.

So that eyelash extensions do not cause unexpected side effects that can affect visual acuity, consult the master before the procedure and be sure to tell him about your chronic or other diseases (previous hepatitis, HIV) or other causes that are directly related to your health condition.